Advanced Modeling2

Now the secret to building a model is not so secret. It takes a general plan or blueprint. From this you can start building. I use a scale - (Example: 5mm tall walls for a single story house, and 10mm for two story house.) This keeps everything close to the same size for the models I use which are Warhammer, Heresy, and Reaper 25mm size characters. Any model you build needs to be scaled correctly before you start. If this is not done you will end up with a model that just does not look right with the characters you have. I make all my stuff so it works with 25mm and 30mm characters.

For Warhammer 40K for example, you can take any card structure and add rivits. I cut weedeater string to make them. Then on places I want rivits, I use a stick pin to get the small piece of weedeater string and dip it in a bit of glue then place it on the card. It is best if you measure out the spaces before you start and make light marks with a pencil.

tip: weedeater string makes good rivits. Slice em thin.

You can add depth to a model with small bits of detail. I have made all sorts of things to add to models. You can sculpt some yourself, or buy them from me. The point is the small details help bring a model to life. A house is fine with painted windows, but it looks cool with windows cut in it. Even cooler with furniture inside. This will not win a battle, but it helps pull you into the game or scene you are building or playing. I make the original, then I use RTV silicone to make a mold of it. Then I de-mold the part and use a two part urathane to cast the copies. It is not cost effective to do this for just yourself. So I opened Modelers Attic to offer it to everyone. No purchase is necessary to get my help or a tip. Just send me a e-mail and when I can I will answer.

So that is all there is to it. The rest is up to your imagination, and talent.

Parts that move are tricky. I have had the best luck with re-inforced silicone. I use a plastic sack like those you get at the grocery store. I spread a thin layer of 25 year paintable silicone on it (1/16" thick). Then I let it dry. When it is dry you can cut hinges from it in any design you want. Use superglue to glue one side of the hinge to the door or gate, and let it dry. Then use superglue again to put in place on the structure. Always do a dry fit before you attempt to glue in place. Prime and paint all of it when done. You could get a set of my pinned working hinges out of the Steel Set.

tip: plastic sacks with a layer of silicone makes good hinges for doors, cut to fit.

RUBBLE

Lets face it no war torn area will look right without rubble. A pile of rubble may be assorted pieces of wood or rocks or both. It works best of you mix the whole lot with glue. Then dip it out or pour it where you want it. Example In a corner of a ruin you would have old rock or brick, trash and wood planks. It could also be scattered about. Try it and see what looks the best for your model.

My point being it will help project the feeling of a old broken down building if pieces of the building are left along side the ruin. I have never seen a clean old castle or a perfect section of the Great Wall. Either nature took it over or rubble was all around.

Just Build It!

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